Quick Details
AMGA SPI Exam
The American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) Single-Pitch Instructor (SPI) Exam is the first in the AMGA sequence of climbing instructor and guide training assessments. The SPI exam is designed to help recreational climbers transition into capable and effective climbing instructors. The exam certifies that the instructor has the technical and teaching skills required to instruct rock climbing in a single-pitch setting.
For the purpose of the SPI Program a single-pitch climb is: climbed without intermediate belays and presents no difficulties on approach or retreat. This includes skills such as route finding, scrambling or navigating.
In addition, the course addresses the essential educational and environmental tenets required to teach climbing. Those seeking certification may go on to take a two day field examination following the course or at any time within three years after successfully completing the course.
Certified Single-Pitch Instructors are expected to demonstrate the technical and educational proficiencies necessary to instruct a variety of single pitch rock climbing skills in a safe and effective manner in all settings.
Need climbing instructor training but don’t meet the AMGA SPI Assessment prerequisites? Kaf Adventures also offers a variety of instructional courses in many disciplines. If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to contact us for more details.
Please note that this exam can be customized at any time of the year.
For more SPI Course information, click Single Pitch Instructor Certification.
For the SPI program Manual click AMGA SPI Manual.
-
The exam will be spent working outdoors all day. Plan on dealing with inclement weather. The assessment will run rain or shine.
Please see the AMGA course manual for the curriculum flow.
Each day will run from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Day 1 – Plan on demonstrating your technical skills right away. Most of the day is focused on leading, instructing, building anchors and systems, managing your peers, and performing a rescue. Come prepared to guide/instruct on Day 1. Show up ready to take anyone climbing on any style route. Act like Day 1 is a day you are working for your organization. Overall, you will be needing to communicate and work with your peers, on the first night of the exam so be prepared for a long evening on Day 1 and an early morning on Day 2.
Day 2 – This day will be focused more on soft skills and group management. You will be leading a group through a top roping day, and demonstrating your ability to work with others and your peers. The examiner may arrange for volunteer novice clients (non-paying) for the candidates to instruct in a group setting. This is not required but is a great benefit to the assessment process.
-
18+ for adult courses or 16+ with consent from a guardian and Kaf approval
-
- You have successfully completed the AMGA Single-Pitch Instructor Course or the AMGA Top Rope Site Manager Course.
- You have traditionally lead climbed a minimum of 40 graded rock routes. A large number of these should have been 5.6 or harder on a variety of rock types.
- You are capable of comfortably leading traditional routes at the 5.6 grade in a variety of styles (crack, face, and slab). You will be asked to demonstrate your leading ability throughout the assessment.
- You are capable of comfortably climbing 5.8 while on top rope.
-
This is an assessment for certification. You should already possess the skills from the AMGA SPI Course. However, your learnings will come through self-reflection.
-
- Transportation
- Lunch
- Personal climbing gear
- Transportation
-
A detailed equipment list will be sent to you prior to the start of the exam.
-
Transportation and times will be coordinates by email when the pre-trip announcement is sent to all registrants.
-
Consider registering for the Rock Climbing: Advanced, or Ice Climbing: Beginner.