Smith Rock Traditional Lead Climbing
Smith Rock Traditional Lead Climbing
Smith Rock Traditional Lead Climbing
Smith Rock Traditional Lead Climbing
Smith Rock Traditional Lead Climbing
Smith Rock Traditional Lead Climbing
Smith Rock Traditional Lead Climbing
Smith Rock Traditional Lead Climbing

Smith Rock Traditional Lead Climbing

This is an intermediate course for those who have taken our Traditional Fundamentals course, or have experience placing trad gear. Our AMGA certified single-pitch instructors and rock guides will teach you to place traditional protection in cracks, construct EARNEST gear anchors, and lead crack climbs. 

Although Smith Rock gets most of its attention from being at the forefront of sport climbing, it is actually home to more traditional routes. The Lower Gorge was developed starting in the '50's and features classic cracks with good friction on towering columnar basalt. It's the perfect place to take on these new skills and leave the bustle behind as you jam and stem your way up beside the river.

 You will leave feeling empowered to take your skills to other trad climbing havens like Index, Trout Creek, and beyond. Start your tick-list because you’ll have a whole new set of skills as a traditional lead climber!

Duration

  • 1 day
  • 8 hours

Season

  • Spring
  • Summer
  • Autumn

Client:Guide Ratio

4:1

Minimum Participants

3

Meet your climbing instructor at 8am and hike to the climbing site.

You will spend the morning working with a variety of tools and techniques designed to expand your traditional climbing tool kit as well as hone some of the skills introduced in the Traditional Climbing Fundamentals course. Guides will cover a variety of topics including tips for placing gear efficiently, belaying from above, and more complex anchor situations, among others.

Lunch will be done on-the-go, allowing you to maximize your learning opportunities on this one-day course.

The afternoon will consist of real-world applications. At your instructor’s discretion, you will perform some mock or real leads, after which your instructor will assess your gear placements and provide feedback. Guides will give you as much time as possible to apply the day’s lessons in ways that will make you a more confident leader when venturing out on the sharp end in traditional climbing terrain.

You can expect to be back to the parking lot around 4pm.

  • Sport Lead Climbing or equivalent experience.
  • Traditional Climbing Fundamentals or equivalent experience.
  • A solid foundation of sport and trad climbing skills including knowledge of basic climbing knots and ability to lead belay.
  • Any additional climbing experience will enhance your ability to learn, but is not required.
  • Ability to be moderately active for a full day.
  • Upon registration, you will receive a confirmation email full of important information - make sure to read it thoroughly!
  • 3-5 days before your course you will receive an email from your guide containing even more details, including the exact meetup location and time.
  • Leading up to your course, make sure to eat healthy, drink extra water, and get plenty of sleep.
  • Please arrive on time and ready to go at your pre-arranged meeting location. To get the most of our day, we'd like to begin right at the designated start time.
  • All along the way, our office team is available via email or phone to answer any questions you may have.

This course will leave you with knowledge and practical application of:

Refining gear placements:

  • Efficient identification of a features’ ability to take gear.
  • Equalizing multiple pieces in a non-anchor scenario.
  • Rope line management; minimizing leader’s rope drag.
  • Slotting gear.

Complex Anchor Situations:

  • Anchors involving more than 3 pieces.
  • Sling craft for complex anchors involving a combination of gear and natural features.

Cleaning Routes and Descents:

  • Proper techniques for cleaning anchors safely in a single pitch environment.
  • Rappelling in a single pitch environment.
  • Personal anchor strategies.

Climbing Technique:

  • Crack Climbing Skills.
  • Principles of efficient movement in a traditional climbing context.

Field Skills Development

  • Mock or real lead of traditional routes (at instructor’s discretion).
  • Belaying from above.
  • Tips and tricks for removing stuck gear.

PLUS:

  • A fun experience you’ll remember forever! 
  • A sense of accomplishment in achieving your goals for the trip.
  • Confidence in your newfound skills and where to take them next.
  • Tips and tricks to add to your toolbox from our professional and knowledgeable guides.

Equipment List

Payment & Cancellation Policies

Travel Information & Trip Insurance

Meet the Team

Gratuities

FAQs

Smith Rock Traditional Lead Climbing

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