Eldorado Peak Summit Climb
Eldorado Peak Summit Climb
Eldorado Peak Summit Climb
Eldorado Peak Summit Climb
Eldorado Peak Summit Climb
Eldorado Peak Summit Climb
Eldorado Peak Summit Climb
Eldorado Peak Summit Climb

Eldorado Peak Summit Climb

$1,999.00
/
Client to Guide Ratio
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The sustained “snow arete” of Eldorado’s East Ridge is a welcome adaptation of ridge climbing. It is moderate enough to be challenging, and the position is stimulating as to maintain your engagement until you reach the summit to take in the sea of Cascades that surrounds you. The East Ridge is a fantastic beginner climb to give you a taste of mountaineering and pique your interest for more. 

West Arete
The West Arete is an advanced climb on the opposite side from the famous East Ridge. It incorporates more diverse skills as it traverses more glaciated terrain and climbs amazing alpine rock up to 5.8. It is a serious undertaking and known as a crown jewel of the North Cascades. 

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Custom Climbs

The Pacific Northwest is well known for the glacier-covered volcanoes that dominate the landscape and attract the attention of climbers from all over the world. But beyond the big names of Tahoma, Kulshan, and Wy'east lie thousands of other peaks worthy of exploration. The Olympic and Cascade mountain ranges are steep, rugged, and will take you to high alpine meadows, rocky ridges, and icy glaciers that most people can only dream of.
Whether you are a local climber looking for your next challenge or have honed your skills elsewhere and are visiting Washington for the first time, Kaf Adventures would love for you to join us on some of the greatest experiences the PNW has to offer. We have carefully chosen a selection of featured objectives that offer the perfect training ground to push your skills to the next level under the tutelage of our professional guides.
Custom climbs:
  • Are booked on a custom basis, meaning your group on your schedule (subject to backcountry permit availability). 
  • Have a maximum client to guide ratio based on management strategies that cannot be exceeded.
  • Incorporate movement on snow and glaciated terrain, as well as varying degrees of 3rd, 4th, and 5th class rock. 
  • Each have their own requirements for incoming skills and fitness. Please see the "Walk in With" tab below for specifics and be prepared to discuss further with us if needed.
  • Are not limited to this selection. If you dream it, we can help you do it! For other ideas, see guidebook resources such as Beckey’s 100 Favorite North American Climbs, Kearney’s Classic Climbs of the Northwest, Steck & Roper’s 50 Classic Climbs of North America, and Nelson & Potterfield’s Select Climbs in the Cascades.

Duration

  • 3 days
  • 2 nights

Season

  • Spring
  • Summer

Client:Guide Ratio

3:1

Minimum Participants

1

Because this is a custom climb, parts of the itinerary can be suited to your preferences. Here are samples based on our previous successes:

Day 1 - Arrive at your designated meeting location by 8am to go over equipment, distribute group gear, and finish loading your packs before driving to the Eldorado trailhead. The approach begins with a river crossing, followed by a steep 2,000' ascent that eases up in a large boulder field. Overall the hike into basecamp is about 4 miles and 4,500 feet of elevation gain. After setting up camp, you'll spend the afternoon practicing crampon and ice axe techniques, self-arrest, glacier rigging, rope team travel, and more. After a long day, you will be glad to have a hot meal and go to bed early to get some rest for the summit attempt!

Day 2 - Wake up early for an alpine start. Depending on the route/conditions/weather and a myriad of other factors, it can take anywhere from 3 to 6 hours to reach the summit. Enjoy the views and sense of accomplishment - you earned it! After a short celebration, you will reverse course and plunge step back to camp for a well-deserved meal and rest.

Day 3 - Enjoy a relaxing morning, then break down camp, and head back down. You can expect to be back to the trailhead by 4pm.

  • Ability to safely travel on moderate snow slopes with crampons and ice axe is recommended.
  • Any additional mountaineering experience will enhance your ability to learn, but is not required.
  • Ability to hike for 6-8 hours and ascend up to 4000' with a 45 lb pack, several days in a row.

The West Arete

All of the above PLUS:

  • Glacier Mountaineering Skills Course or equivalent experience.
  • Proficiency in basic climbing knots and hitches and ability to safely lead belay.
  • Experience rock climbing outside at 5.8 and the ability to rappel.
  • Experience as a member of a team on at least 1 glaciated climb and 1 alpine rock route.
  • Upon registration, you will receive a confirmation email full of important information - make sure to read it thoroughly!
  • 7-10 days before your trip you will receive an email from your guide containing even more details, including the exact meetup location and time.
  • Plan to attend a virtual pre-trip meeting in the evening a few days before your course begins. This is required and a great opportunity to meet your guide, review gear, discuss your trip plan, and ask any last minute questions. For Sat-Sun AIARE courses plan on Thursday 6:30-8:30pm; otherwise the exact time of your meeting will be set by your instructor and noted in their welcome email.
  • Leading up to your course, make sure to eat healthy, drink extra water, and get plenty of sleep.
  • Please arrive on time and ready to go at your pre-arranged meeting location. Upon arrival, we'll distribute any group gear and finish loading our packs. From there we will caravan to the trailhead.
  • All along the way, our office team is available via email or phone to answer any questions you may have.

This trip will leave you with knowledge and practical application of:

  • Pre-trip planning.
  • Route finding and navigation in glaciated terrain.
  • Snow camping.
  • Ascending and descending steep snow slopes using crampons and ice axe.
  • Glacier rigging, rope team travel, and rope management.
  • Safe travel techniques in a snowy and icy environment.
  • Alpine rock movement and technique. (West Arete)
  • Multi-pitch systems and rope management. (West Arete)
  • Rappelling. (West Arete)


PLUS:

  • A fun experience you’ll remember forever! 
  • A sense of accomplishment in achieving your goals for the trip.
  • Confidence in your newfound skills and where to take them next.
  • Tips and tricks to add to your toolbox from our professional and knowledgeable guides.

Payment & Cancellation Policies

Travel Information & Trip Insurance

Meet the Team

Gratuities

FAQs

Equipment Lists

Required Gear

  1. Pack 50-70L capacity *make sure to leave room for group gear 
  2. Sleeping gear
    -20º-30º sleeping bag
    -sleeping pad
  3. Head/face protection 
    -warm hat 
    -sun hat *baseball cap is fine
    -neck gaiter *buff
    -sunglasses with good side coverage 
  4. Mountaineering boots and crampons that fit snugly,gaiters *optional but encouraged
  5. Water bottles with at least 2L capacity
  6. Insulating/puffy layer
  7. Personal mess kit
    -bowl *w/ lid preferred
    -cup 
    -utensil
  8. Waterproof layer *hooded jacket and pants
  9. Moisture wicking, non-cotton base layer top and bottom
  10. Climbing gear
    -harness
    -2 pear-shaped locking carabiners 
    -helmet
    -mountaineering axe
  11. 2 pairs of gloves 
    -insulating gloves
    -waterproof gloves
  12. Personal kit
    -sunscreen *SPF 40 or higher
    -lip balm
    -headlamp and extra batteries
    -toiletries *please bring a plastic baggie for waste
    -personal medications and first aid
  13. Glacier kit 
    -3 non-locking carabiners
    -3 pear shaped locking carabiners
    -1 double (48”) length sewn runner (120 cm sling)
    -1 sewn prusik cord (60cm) *BEAL Jammy or similar
    -1 triple (180cm) length sewn sling


Not Pictured/Optional Gear
☐ Lunches and snacks ☐ Camp shoes ☐ Trekking poles ☐ Rappelling gloves *leather work gloves acceptable 
☐ Whistle ☐ Pocketknife/Leatherman ☐ Extra nylon cord (25-50’) ☐ Area maps and compass ☐ Heavy duty plastic trash bag (for water-proofing) ☐ Note pad/pencil
☐ Camera ☐ Watch ☐ Half foam pad to stand/sit in snow ☐ Extra stuff sacks ☐ Bandana ☐ Wind-breaker jacket and pant

What Kaf Provides

  1. Tents
  2. Assorted protection suitable for the objective *ice screws, vs cams, vs pickets
  3. Water filtration
  4. Group cookware
  5. Food storage
  6. In reach/satellite radio
  7. Assorted cords, pulleys, glacier rig kit
  8. Wag bags
  9. Breakfasts and dinners while in the field *this includes hot drink mixes
  10. Group stoves and fuel
  11. Group first aid kit and medical supplies 
  12. Glacier/climbing ropes