Forbidden Peak Summit Climb
Forbidden Peak Summit Climb
Forbidden Peak Summit Climb
Forbidden Peak Summit Climb
Forbidden Peak Summit Climb
Forbidden Peak Summit Climb

Forbidden Peak Summit Climb

Starting from

$1,999.00
/

This trip is booked on a custom basis. Call us to learn more and start planning your adventure today!
(206) 413-5418

Client to Guide Ratio

 

The West Ridge
Listed as one of the 50 Classic Climbs of North America, here you'll find one of the most pure ridges in all the Cascades. Climb through a steep snow couloir to an imposing granite ridge. The miles of exposure on each side will give you a thrill as you make your way to the summit. This ridge also marks the final objective challenge of the infamous Torment-Forbidden Traverse.


The North Ridge 
This is a committing and adventurous route for the advanced climber and mountaineer. This experience offers extensive travel over the formidable Boston Glacier and a long, rocky ridge traverse. You'll celebrate your victory atop Forbidden Peak with one of the most stunning views in all the Cascades. The descent is down the west ridge. 


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Custom Climbs

The Pacific Northwest is well known for the glacier-covered volcanoes that dominate the landscape and attract the attention of climbers from all over the world. But beyond the big names of Tahoma, Kulshan, and Wy'east lie thousands of other peaks worthy of exploration. The Olympic and Cascade mountain ranges are steep, rugged, and will take you to high alpine meadows, rocky ridges, and icy glaciers that most people can only dream of. 

Whether you are a local climber looking for your next challenge or have honed your skills elsewhere and are visiting Washington for the first time, Kaf Adventures would love for you to join us on some of the greatest experiences the PNW has to offer. We have carefully chosen a selection of featured objectives that offer the perfect training ground to push your skills to the next level under the tutelage of our professional guides. 

Custom climbs:
  • Are booked on a custom basis, meaning your group on your schedule (subject to backcountry permit availability). 
  • Have a maximum client to guide ratio based on management strategies that cannot be exceeded.
  • Incorporate movement on snow and glaciated terrain, as well as varying degrees of 3rd, 4th, and 5th class rock. 
  • Each have their own requirements for incoming skills and fitness. Please see the "Walk in With" tab below for specifics and be prepared to discuss further with us if needed.
  • Are not limited to this selection. If you dream it, we can help you do it! For other ideas, see guidebook resources such as Beckey’s 100 Favorite North American Climbs, Kearney’s Classic Climbs of the Northwest, Steck & Roper’s 50 Classic Climbs of North America, and Nelson & Potterfield’s Select Climbs in the Cascades.

Duration

  • 3 days
  • 2 nights

Season

  • Summer

Client:Guide Ratio

2:1

Minimum Participants

1

Because this is a custom climb, parts of the itinerary can be suited to your preferences. Here is a sample based on our previous successes:

West Ridge

Day 1 - Arrive at your designated meeting location by 8am to go over equipment, distribute group gear, and finish loading your packs before driving to the trailhead. You may have to stop for permits. The approach to basecamp is 3-5 miles and up to 3,000 feet of elevation gain with several river crossings. After setting up camp in the beautiful Boston Basin, you can spend some time practicing crampon and ice axe techniques, rappel set ups, and more. After a long day, you will be glad to have a hot meal and go to bed early to get some rest for a big summit day!

Day 2 - Leave camp around 4am to start the summit attempt. Depending on the route/conditions/weather and a myriad of other factors, it can take anywhere from 6 to 10 hours to reach the summit. From camp, the waterfall slabs and dead glacier take you to the base of a steep snow chute - or in later season the Catscratch Gulley - which you will safely ascend to gain the west ridge. Already the views are staggering and you'll soon see why this is a Cascade Classic. The solid rock ridge leads you to the summit. Enjoy the sense of accomplishment and some of the greatest views of the North Cascades - you earned it! From there the journey isn't over as the descent takes just as much care. You can expect careful downclimbing and 8+ rappels before setting foot back on the snowfield. A bit of plunge stepping and you'll be ready to crawl right into your sleeping bag.

Day 3 - Enjoy a relaxing morning staring up at the peak you just climbed and dreaming of the ones you will! Break down camp, and head back to the cars. You can expect to be back to the trailhead by 4pm.

North Ridge

Day 1 - Arrive at your designated meeting location by 8am to go over equipment, distribute group gear, and finish loading your packs before driving to the trailhead. You may have to stop for permits. The approach is serious, with 5 miles and over 5,000 feet of elevation gain. Several river crossings stand between you and Boston Basin. From there you will ascend to the Sharkin Col and rappel onto the Boston Glacier, the largest in North Cascades National Park. Here you will rope up and wind your way through the terrain as you look in awe at the numerous crevasses surrounding you. Finally, you will reach the base of the North Ridge and scramble up to your home for the night. After such a long day, you will be glad to have a hot meal and go to bed early to get some rest for the summit attempt!

Day 2 - Leave camp around 4am to start the summit attempt. Expect that this day will take well over 12 hours and remember you will be carrying your full pack. As a trade-off, you'll likely be the only ones on the route. The north ridge may not be as classic as the west, but it is three times as long. After several hours of climbing, you will reach the top. Enjoy the sense of accomplishment and some of the greatest views of the North Cascades - you earned it! From there the journey isn't over as the descent down the west ridge takes just as much care. You can expect careful downclimbing and 8+ rappels before setting foot back on the snowfield. A bit of plunge stepping and you'll be ready to crawl right into your sleeping bag.

Day 3 - Enjoy a relaxing morning staring up at the peak you just climbed and dreaming of the ones you will! Break down camp, and head back to the cars. You can expect to be back to the trailhead by 4pm.

  • Mount Hood Skills Course or equivalent experience.
  • Comfort ascending and descending steep snow using crampons and ice axe.
  • Proficiency in basic climbing knots and hitches and ability to safely lead belay.
  • Previous experience outdoor rock climbing at 5.7 or above.
  • Experience as part of a team on at least 1 alpine rock route.
  • Ability to rappel under supervision.
  • Ability to hike for 6 hours and ascend up to 3000' with a 45 lb pack, followed by the ability to hike and climb for 12 hours and ascend up to 3000' with a 25 lb pack.

North Ridge

All of the above PLUS:

  • Glacier Mountaineering Skills Course or equivalent experience.
  • Proficiency in all basic mountaineering skills and experience as a member of a rope team on at least 1 glaciated climb.
  • Crevasse Rescue Application or equivalent experience and recent practice is recommended.
  • Ability to pack light and carry all your gear for the duration of the climb and descent.
  • Upon registration, you will receive a confirmation email full of important information - make sure to read it thoroughly!
  • 7-10 days before your trip you will receive an email from your guide containing even more details, including the exact meetup location and time.
  • Plan to attend a virtual pre-trip meeting in the evening a few days before your course begins. This is required and a great opportunity to meet your guide, review gear, discuss your trip plan, and ask any last minute questions. For Sat-Sun AIARE courses plan on Thursday 6:30-8:30pm; otherwise the exact time of your meeting will be set by your instructor and noted in their welcome email.
  • Leading up to your course, make sure to eat healthy, drink extra water, and get plenty of sleep.
  • Please arrive on time and ready to go at your pre-arranged meeting location. Upon arrival, we'll distribute any group gear and finish loading our packs. From there we will caravan to the trailhead.
  • All along the way, our office team is available via email or phone to answer any questions you may have.

This trip will leave you with knowledge and practical application of:

  • Pre-trip planning.
  • Route finding and navigation.
  • Snow camping.
  • Ascending and descending steep snow slopes using crampons and ice axe.
  • Safe travel techniques in a snowy environment.
  • Alpine rock movement and technique.
  • Multi-pitch systems and rope management.
  • The unique challenges of ridge climbing.
  • Rappelling.


PLUS:

  • A fun experience you’ll remember forever! 
  • A sense of accomplishment in achieving your goals for the trip.
  • Confidence in your newfound skills and where to take them next.
  • Tips and tricks to add to your toolbox from our professional and knowledgeable guides.

Payment & Cancellation Policies

Travel Information & Trip Insurance

Meet the Team

Gratuities

FAQs

Equipment Lists

Required Gear

  1. Climbing helmet
  2. Water bottles with at least 2L capacity
  3. Climbing harness. Chalk bag optional
  4. Personal mess kit
    -bowl w/ lid preferred
    -cup 
    -utensil
  5. Sleeping gear
    -20º-30º sleeping bag
    -sleeping pad
  6. Mountaineering boots *3 season, or alpine approach shoes **plus crampons**
  7. Climbing shoes you can wear all day
  8. Backpack 45-70L *make sure to leave room for group gear 
  9. Climbing gear: 
    -1 prusik cord
    -1 double length (48”) sewn runner (sling)
    -auto blocking belay device ATC guide or similar
    -2 pear shaped  locking carabiners
  10. Waterproof layer *hooded jacket and pants
  11. Moisture wicking, non-cotton base and mid layers
  12. Warm layers *puffy jacket, gloves
  13. Personal kit
    -sunscreen *SPF 40 or higher
    -lip balm
    -headlamp and extra batteries
    -toiletries *please bring a plastic baggie for waste
    -personal medications or first aid
  14. Head/face protection 
    -warm hat 
    -sun hat *baseball cap is fine
    -neck gaiter *buff
    -sunglasses with good side coverage 


Not Pictured/Optional Gear
☐ Lunches and snacks ☐ Camp shoes ☐ Trekking Poles ☐ Whistle ☐ Pocketknife/Leatherman ☐ Extra nylon cord (25-50’) ☐ Area maps and compass ☐ Heavy duty plastic trash bag (for water-proofing) ☐ Note pad/pencil
☐ Camera ☐ Watch ☐ Half foam pad to stand/sit in snow ☐ Shorts/t shirt ☐ Extra stuff sacks ☐ Bandana
☐ Rappelling gloves *leather work gloves acceptable
☐ Wind-breaker jacket and pants

What Kaf Provides

  1. Tents
  2. Assorted protection suitable for the objective *ice screws, vs cams, vs pickets
  3. Water filtration
  4. Group cookware
  5. Food storage
  6. In reach/satellite radio
  7. Assorted cords, pulleys, glacier rig kit
  8. Wag bags
  9. Breakfasts and dinners while in the field *this includes hot drink mixes
  10. Group stoves and fuel
  11. Group first aid kit and medical supplies 
  12. Glacier/climbing ropes