If you are a mountaineer in the PNW, you've surely gazed up at Mount Hood towering over the nearby Columbia River Gorge, and have likely braved the chutes yourself to stand on top for a glorious sunrise and the satisfaction that comes with being on the highest point in Oregon.
While most climbers stick to the classic South Side routes like the Pearly Gates and Old Chute, there are many other routes on Mt. Hood that provide a variety of challenges for skilled mountaineers. One we like to highlight is the Devil's Kitchen Headwall, an area of steep, icy terrain off to the right above the volcanic crater. It offers several variations as ice formations twist and change in response to the weather, providing an endless array of challenges to face.
This is an intermediate-level climb with up to 4 pitches of sustained moderate to steep icy terrain, rated at AI2-3. Moving quickly is imperative, so it's necessary that climbers have some experience in this type of environment and comfort with multipitch rope systems. Proper layering techniques and the ability to dig deep physically and mentally for a long and strenuous day will be just as important.
This climb is booked on a custom basis. To begin planning, please call or email us and be ready to discuss your climbing history as it pertains to the prerequisites in the "Walk in With" tab below.
If this route sounds inspiring, but a bit above your head for now, join us on the standard route with a Mt. Hood Summit Climb or get some ice climbing practice with our multi-day Winter Alpine Ice Climbing or Summer Glacier Ice Climbing courses.
