Because this is a custom climb, parts of the itinerary can be suited to your preferences. Here is a sample based on our previous successes:
Day 1 - Arrive at your designated meeting location by 8am to go over equipment, distribute group gear, and finish loading your packs before driving to the trailhead. The approach to basecamp is 3-5 miles and up to 3,000 feet of elevation gain. After setting up basecamp, you'll spend the afternoon refining skills, going over rope systems, and perhaps practicing crevasse rescue. You will be glad to have a hot meal and go to bed early to get some rest for the big day ahead.
Day 2 - Leave camp around 2am to start the summit attempt. You'll get warmed up as you traverse the Coleman glacier by headlamp before gaining the North Ridge at 7,800 ft. The terrain steepens and as the sky brightens you'll reach the crux of the route around 9,500 ft. If you weren't using two ice tools before, now is the time. Depending on conditions you'll find several pitches of steep snow to moderate alpine ice to climb. From there, you're not far from the summit proper. Make your way and enjoy the views and sense of accomplishment - you earned it! After a short celebration, be prepared to plunge step several thousand feet back to camp. We'll have a bit of a rest, then break down camp, and head back to the cars. You can expect to be back to the trailhead around 6pm.
