Duration
- 3 days
- 2 nights
Season
- Spring
- Summer
Client:Guide Ratio
2:1
Minimum Participants
1
Because this is a custom climb, parts of the itinerary can be suited to your preferences. Here are samples based on our previous successes:
Day 1 - Arrive at your designated meeting location by 8am to go over equipment, distribute group gear, and finish loading your packs before driving to the Thornton Lake trailhead. The approach to camp is about 6.5 miles and up to 4,000 feet of elevation gain. It starts off simply on an old logging road, but before the hike is over you will encounter forested slopes, boulder hopping, log jams, steep grass, and scree. You'll make camp at Triumph col with gorgeous views of the lakes and mountains around you, as well as tomorrow's objective. After a long day, you will be glad to have a hot meal and go to bed early to get some rest for the summit attempt!
Day 2 - Leave camp early to start the summit attempt. Depending on the route/conditions/weather and a myriad of other factors, it can take anywhere from 6 to 10 hours to reach the summit. From camp, a steep slab or snow traverse takes you to a 3rd class ramp at the start of the route. From here you face 3rd, 4th and 5th class steps requiring careful rope management, before the infamous knife edge traverse and 5.7 crux. Heather ledges take you to the summit. Enjoy the sense of accomplishment and the stunning views into the Pickets and greater North Cascade range - you earned it! From there the journey isn't over as the descent takes just as much care. You can expect a mix careful downclimbing and 10+ rappels before setting foot back on the snowfield. One more traverse and you'll be ready to crawl right into your sleeping bag.
Day 3 - Enjoy a relaxing morning staring up at the peak you just climbed and dreaming of the ones you will! Break down camp, and head back to the cars. You can expect to be back to the trailhead by 4pm.
- Ability to safely travel on moderate snow slopes with crampons and ice axe is recommended.
- Proficiency in basic climbing knots and hitches and ability to safely lead belay.
- Experience rock climbing outside at 5.8 and the ability to rappel.
- Experience as a member of a team on at least 1 alpine rock route.
- Any additional mountaineering experience will enhance your ability to learn, but is not required.
- Ability to hike for 6-8 hours and ascend up to 4000' with a 45 lb pack, several days in a row.
- Upon registration, you will receive a confirmation email full of important information - make sure to read it thoroughly!
- 7-10 days before your trip you will receive an email from your guide containing even more details, including the exact meetup location and time.
- Plan to attend a virtual pre-trip meeting in the evening a few days before your course begins. This is required and a great opportunity to meet your guide, review gear, discuss your trip plan, and ask any last minute questions. For Sat-Sun AIARE courses plan on Thursday 6:30-8:30pm; otherwise the exact time of your meeting will be set by your instructor and noted in their welcome email.
- Leading up to your course, make sure to eat healthy, drink extra water, and get plenty of sleep.
- Please arrive on time and ready to go at your pre-arranged meeting location. Upon arrival, we'll distribute any group gear and finish loading our packs. From there we will caravan to the trailhead.
- All along the way, our office team is available via email or phone to answer any questions you may have.
This trip will leave you with knowledge and practical application of:
- Pre-trip planning.
- Route finding and navigation.
- Snow camping.
- Ascending and descending steep snow slopes using crampons and ice axe.
- Safe travel techniques in a snowy environment.
- Alpine rock movement and technique.
- Multi-pitch systems and rope management.
- The unique challenges of ridge climbing.
- Rappelling.
PLUS:
- A fun experience you’ll remember forever!
- A sense of accomplishment in achieving your goals for the trip.
- Confidence in your newfound skills and where to take them next.
- Tips and tricks to add to your toolbox from our professional and knowledgeable guides.
Equipment Lists

Required Gear
- Climbing helmet
- Water bottles with at least 2L capacity
- Climbing harness. Chalk bag optional
- Personal mess kit
-bowl w/ lid preferred
-cup
-utensil - Sleeping gear
-20º-30º sleeping bag
-sleeping pad - Mountaineering boots *3 season, or alpine approach shoes
- Climbing shoes you can wear all day
- Backpack 45-70L *make sure to leave room for group gear
- Climbing gear:
-1 prusik cord
-1 double length (48”) sewn runner (sling)
-auto blocking belay device ATC guide or similar
-2 pear shaped locking carabiners - Waterproof layer *hooded jacket and pants
- Moisture wicking, non-cotton base and mid layers
- Warm layers *puffy jacket, gloves
- Personal kit
-sunscreen *SPF 40 or higher
-lip balm
-headlamp and extra batteries
-toiletries *please bring a plastic baggie for waste
-personal medications or first aid - Head/face protection
-warm hat
-sun hat *baseball cap is fine
-neck gaiter *buff
-sunglasses with good side coverage
Not Pictured/Optional Gear
☐ Lunches and snacks ☐ Camp shoes ☐ Trekking Poles ☐ Whistle ☐ Pocketknife/Leatherman ☐ Extra nylon cord (25-50’) ☐ Area maps and compass ☐ Heavy duty plastic trash bag (for water-proofing) ☐ Note pad/pencil
☐ Camera ☐ Watch ☐ Half foam pad to stand/sit in snow ☐ Shorts/t shirt ☐ Extra stuff sacks ☐ Bandana
☐ Rappelling gloves *leather work gloves acceptable
☐ Wind-breaker jacket and pants

What Kaf Provides
- Tents
- Assorted protection suitable for the objective *ice screws, vs cams, vs pickets
- Water filtration
- Group cookware
- Food storage
- In reach/satellite radio
- Assorted cords, pulleys, glacier rig kit
- Wag bags
- Breakfasts and dinners while in the field *this includes hot drink mixes
- Group stoves and fuel
- Group first aid kit and medical supplies
- Glacier/climbing ropes