The American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) Single-Pitch Instructor (SPI) Course is the first in the AMGA sequence of climbing instructor and guide training programs. The SPI course was designed to help recreational climbers transition into capable and effective climbing instructors. The course focuses on the technical and teaching skills required to instruct rock climbing in a single-pitch setting.
For the purpose of the SPI Program, a single-pitch climb is climbed without intermediate belays and presents no difficulties on approach or retreat. This includes skills such as route finding, scrambling, or navigating.
In addition, the course addresses the essential educational and environmental tenets required to teach climbing. Those seeking certification may go on to take a two-day field examination following the course or at any time within three years after successfully completing the course.
The SPI course is intended for climbers who are already proficient in both top rope and lead climbing. It was designed to benefit those who wish to teach outdoor climbing skills to groups such as guide services, camps, schools, universities, therapeutic groups, religious groups, and climbing gyms. Those who wish to teach climbing in the outdoors tend to have a much higher success rate in obtaining employment as climbing instructors with this training and certification. The AMGA strongly suggests this course as a precursor to those interested in pursuing Rock Instructor or Rock Guide training and certification.
Certified Single-Pitch Instructors are expected to demonstrate the technical and educational proficiencies necessary to instruct a variety of single pitch rock climbing skills in a safe and effective manner in all settings. While not all students are fully prepared for the exam by the end of the course, every participant will have the training to practice and prepare for an exam in the future.
Check out these resources and the tabs below to learn more and see if this course is right for you!
AMGA SPI Course and Exam
2024 AMGA SPI Program Handbook
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This course will run 8am-5pm all days, rain or shine. You are responsible for your own lodging and food. Campsites are available nearby the climbing area.
The course is focused on top rope site management and will demonstrate new skills and tricks from the industry. Participants will spend most of their time in small group discussions with breakout sessions to practice the skills taught and will debrief at the end of each day.
Day 1 - We will start the course in ground school, going over equipment, knots, hitches,belaying, traditional gear placements, and anchoring.
Day 2 - Today we will focus on base-managed climbing sites. This involves site organization and group management, plus lead climbing, top rope set up, instructor rappels, rescue techniques, and risk management.
Day 3 - Today we will focus on top-managed climbing sites. We'll discuss anchors, lowering, hauling, student rappels, and climbing movement. In the last session there will be time to review anything you need more time on before the final debriefs.
Please see the AMGA SPI Program Manual for a more detailed curriculm flow.
AMGA Requirements for this course:
This course will leave you with knowledge and practical application of: