Duration
- 2 days
- 8 hrs/day
Season
- Spring
- Summer
- Autumn
Client:Guide Ratio
6:1
Minimum Participants
3
This course will run 8am-5pm both days, rain or shine. You are responsible for your own lodging and food. Campsites are available nearby the climbing area.
Day 1 – Plan on demonstrating your technical skills right away. Most of the day is focused on leading, instructing, building anchors and systems, managing your peers, and performing a rescue. Come prepared to guide/instruct on Day 1 and show up ready to take anyone climbing on any style route. Act like it is a day you are working for your organization. You will need to communicate and work with your peers on the first night of the exam so be prepared for a long evening on Day 1 and an early morning on Day 2.
Day 2 – This day will be focused more on soft skills and group management. You will be leading a group through a top roping day, and demonstrating your ability to work with others. The examiner may arrange for volunteer novice clients (non-paying) for the candidates to instruct in a group setting. This is not required but is a great benefit to the assessment process.
Please see the AMGA SPI Program Manual for a more detailed curriculm flow and assessment criteria.
AMGA Requirements for this Exam:
- You have successfully completed the AMGA Single-Pitch Instructor Course or the AMGA Top Rope Site Manager Course.
- You have traditionally lead climbed a minimum of 40 graded rock routes. A large number of these should have been 5.6 or harder on a variety of rock types.
- You are capable of comfortably leading traditional routes at the 5.6 grade in a variety of styles (crack, face, and slab). You will be asked to demonstrate your leading ability throughout the assessment.
- You are capable of comfortably climbing 5.8 while on top rope.
- Ability to be moderately active in all weather conditions for 2 days in a row.
- Upon registration, you will receive a confirmation email full of important information - make sure to read it thoroughly!
- Expect to hear from your guide or our team about a month before your trip or course. You will receive an email containing even more details, including exact meet up location and time and any other pertinent precourse information.
- Leading up to your course, make sure to eat healthy, drink extra water, and get plenty of sleep.
- Please arrive on time and ready to go at your pre-arranged meeting location. To get the most of our day, we'd like to begin right at the designated start time.
- All along the way, our office team is available via email or phone to answer any questions you may have.
- SPI Certification that allows you to work professionally in a single-pitch rock climbing environment.
- A sense of accomplishment and knowledge that you are taking your first step in becoming a climbing guide!
Equipment Lists

Required Gear
- Head/face protection
-sun hat *baseball cap is great
-neck gaiter *buff
-sunglasses - Climbing pack 40-70L
- Climbing harness and helmet
- Water bottles with at least 2L capacity
- 50M static rope
- Waterproof/protective layer
- Cords
-1 18ft. piece of 5.5mm tech cord OR
-1 18ft piece of 7mm nylon cord - Climbing hardware
-active protection
-passive protection
-quickdraws or alpine draws
-10 non-locking carabiners - Dynamic rope *60-80m
- Approach shoes or trail runners
- Personal kit
-sunscreen *SPF 40 or higher
-lip balm
-headlamp and extra batteries
-toiletries *please bring a plastic baggie for waste
-personal medications and first aid - Runners of varying lengths
-2-4 single length (24”)
-2 double length (48”)
-1 quad length (96”) - Belay gear
-ATC Guide
-auto-locking belay device *like a GriGri
-belay gloves - Climbing shoes
- 6 locking carabiners
Not Pictured/Optional Gear
☐Lunches and snacks ☐ *leather work gloves acceptable as belay gloves ☐ Wind-breaker + pant ☐ Note pad/pencil ☐ Camera ☐ Watch ☐ Half foam pad to sit on ☐ Shorts/t-shirt ☐ Bandana ☐ Trekking poles
