Because this is a custom climb, parts of the itinerary can be suited to your preferences. Here is a sample based on our previous successes:
West Ridge
Day 1 - Arrive at your designated meeting location by 8am to go over equipment, distribute group gear, and finish loading your packs before driving to the trailhead. You may have to stop for permits. The approach to basecamp is 3-5 miles and up to 3,000 feet of elevation gain with several river crossings. After setting up camp in the beautiful Boston Basin, you can spend some time practicing crampon and ice axe techniques, rappel set ups, and more. After a long day, you will be glad to have a hot meal and go to bed early to get some rest for a big summit day!
Day 2 - Leave camp around 4am to start the summit attempt. Depending on the route/conditions/weather and a myriad of other factors, it can take anywhere from 6 to 10 hours to reach the summit. From camp, the waterfall slabs and dead glacier take you to the base of a steep snow chute - or in later season the Catscratch Gulley - which you will safely ascend to gain the west ridge. Already the views are staggering and you'll soon see why this is a Cascade Classic. The solid rock ridge leads you to the summit. Enjoy the sense of accomplishment and some of the greatest views of the North Cascades - you earned it! From there the journey isn't over as the descent takes just as much care. You can expect careful downclimbing and 8+ rappels and before setting foot back on the snowfield. A bit of plunge stepping and you'll be ready to crawl right into your sleeping bag.
Day 3 - Enjoy a relaxing morning staring up at the peak you just climbed and dreaming of the ones you will! Break down camp, and head back to the cars. You can expect to be back to the trailhead by 4pm.
North Ridge
Day 1 - Arrive at your designated meeting location by 8am to go over equipment, distribute group gear, and finish loading your packs before driving to the trailhead. You may have to stop for permits. The approach is serious, with 5 miles and over 5,000 feet of elevation gain. Several river crossings stand between you and Boston Basin. From there you will ascend to the Sharkin Col and rappel onto the Boston Glacier, the largest in North Cascades National Park. Here you will rope up and wind your way through the terrain as you look in awe at the numerous crevasses surrounding you. Finally, you will reach the base of the North Ridge and scramble up to your home for the night. After such a long day, you will be glad to have a hot meal and go to bed early to get some rest for the summit attempt!
Day 2 - Leave camp around 4am to start the summit attempt. Expect that this day will take well over 12 hours and remember you will be carrying your full pack. As a trade-off, you'll likely be the only ones on the route. The north ridge may not be as classic as the west, but it is three times as long. After several hours of climbing, you will reach the top. Enjoy the sense of accomplishment and some of the greatest views of the North Cascades - you earned it! From there the journey isn't over as the descent down the west ridge takes just as much care. You can expect careful downclimbing and 8+ rappels and before setting foot back on the snowfield. A bit of plunge stepping and you'll be ready to crawl right into your sleeping bag.
Day 3 - Enjoy a relaxing morning staring up at the peak you just climbed and dreaming of the ones you will! Break down camp, and head back to the cars. You can expect to be back to the trailhead by 4pm.
