Introduction to Winter Alpinism
Introduction to Winter Alpinism
Introduction to Winter Alpinism

Introduction to Winter Alpinism

Starting from

Regular price$999.00
/

This trip is booked on a custom basis. Call us to learn more and start planning your adventure today!
(206) 413-5418

Client to Guide Ratio

Located on the north side of the mountain, the Eliot Glacier provides a stunning remote landscape and a perfect place to learn and refine a full breadth of winter mountaineering skills. The highlight of this course is a full day of vertical ice climbing along the Cooper Spur, but to get there, steep snow, glacier travel, bergschrund crossings and camping on the Eliot await you in this unforgiving environment that will both challenge and delight you. Our professional guides will be there every step of the way, helping you to get the most of what the mountain throws at you. 

This course is scheduled on a custom basis January - April. Some flexibility for a good weather window is preferred. Excellent fitness is required. 

Duration

  • 3 days
  • 2 nights

Season

  • Winter
  • Spring

Client:Guide Ratio

3:1

Minimum Participants

2

Day 1 - This trip begins at the Tilly Jane trailhead. The approach hike is 4-6 miles with up to 3000' of elevation gain, so be prepared to hike on snowy trails with your camping gear for at least 6 hours. We will go over best practices for winter/glacier camping as we set up your home for the weekend and if there's time before dark we can review snow climbing skills. A hot meal and a good night's sleep will fuel you for the rest of the weekend.

Day 2 - Be prepared for a full day of climbing and instruction. Getting to the ice requires roping up to cross a glacier, traversing high-angle snow, and crossing a bergschrund - the full gamut of skills! Ideally everyone will get in a few pitches of vertical ice climbing before reversing course and heading back to camp.

Day 3 - The morning provides an opportunity to ask questions and review skills learned before packing up camp and heading out. You can expect to be back to the parking lot by 4pm.

  • Knowledge of basic climbing knots and ability to top rope belay.
  • Mount Hood Skills Course or equivalent experience.
  • Comfort ascending and descending steep snow using crampons and ice axe.
  • Any additional climbing or mountaineering experience will enhance your ability to learn, but is not required.
  • Previous experience spending long days in the cold is a plus.
  • Excellent fitness is required for this course. Ability to hike 4-6 miles and up to 3,000' of elevation gain with a 50+ lb pack.
  • Upon registration, you will receive a confirmation email full of important information - make sure to read it thoroughly!
  • 7-10 days before your trip you will receive an email from your guide containing even more details, including the exact meetup location and time.
  • Plan to attend a virtual pre-trip meeting in the evening a few days before your course begins. This is required and a great opportunity to meet your guide, review gear, discuss your trip plan, and ask any last minute questions. For Sat-Sun AIARE courses plan on Thursday 6:30-8:30pm; otherwise the exact time of your meeting will be set by your instructor and noted in their welcome email.
  • Leading up to your course, make sure to eat healthy, drink extra water, and get plenty of sleep.
  • Please arrive on time and ready to go at your pre-arranged meeting location. Upon arrival, we'll distribute any group gear and finish loading our packs. From there we will caravan to the trailhead.
  • All along the way, our office team is available via email or phone to answer any questions you may have.

This course will leave you with knowledge and practical application of:

  • Gear packing and equipment choice.
  • Self-care on the mountain.
  • Mountain weather.
  • Glacier travel and rope-handling skills.
  • Mountain hazards and safe travel practices.
  • Route and summit planning.
  • Basic emergency response.
  • Belay techniques
  • Ice tool and crampon techniques
  • Ice climbing movement

PLUS:

  • A fun experience you’ll remember forever! 
  • A sense of accomplishment in achieving your goals for the trip.
  • Confidence in your newfound skills and where to take them next.
  • Tips and tricks to add to your toolbox from our professional and knowledgeable guides.

Equipment Lists

Required Gear

  1. Sleeping gear : 15º-0º sleeping bag, sleeping pad
  2. Backpack 45-60L : make sure to leave room for group gear 
  3. Mountaineering boots and steel ice climbing-specific crampons : The right crampons and their compatibility with your boots is essential. We recommend full shank boots + fully-automatic crampons for the most secure fit, but ¾ shank + semi-automatic may be acceptable. General mountaineering and universal/strap-on crampons are not sufficient. Please ask us if you're not 100% sure and we will work with you to get it right! Kaf has 4 pairs of fully-automatic ice climbing crampons to lend out for this course, first come, first serve.
  4. Water bottles with at least 2L capacity
  5. Personal kit : sunscreen (SPF 40 or higher), lip balm, headlamp and extra batteries, toiletries (please bring a plastic baggie for waste), personal medications and first aid, personal medications and first aid
  6. Personal mess kit : bowl (w/ lid preferred), cup, utensil
  7. Head/face protection : warm hat, sun hat *baseball cap is fine, neck gaiter *buff or balaclava, sunglasses with good side coverage
  8. Insulating/puffy layer
  9. Waterproof layer : hooded jacket and pants
  10. Climbing gear : harness (rock climbing style preferred over glacier style), 2 pear-shaped locking carabiners, climbing helmet
  11. Baselayer top and bottom : non-cotton, moisture-wicking
  12. 2 pairs of gloves : insulating gloves, waterproof gloves


OTHER / OPTIONAL GEAR

  • Lunches and snacks 
  • Camp shoes 
  • Trekking poles 
  • Whistle 
  • Pocketknife/Leatherman 
  • Extra nylon cord (25-50’) 
  • Area maps and compass 
  • Heavy duty plastic trash bags (for water-proofing) 
  • Note pad/pencil
  • Camera 
  • Watch 
  • Half foam pad to stand/sit in snow 
  • Extra stuff sacks
  • Bandana 
  • Wind-breaker jacket and pant

What Kaf Provides

  1. Tents
  2. Ice tools and protection
  3. In Reach satellite radio
  4. Water purification
  5. Group cookware
  6. Food storage
  7. Wag bags
  8. Breakfasts and dinners for field days : this includes hot drink mixes
  9. Group stoves and fuel
  10. Group first aid kit and medical supplies 
  11. Climbing ropes

*Kaf Adventures has a limited quantity of helmets, harnesses, and fully-automatic vertical point steel crampons for use during this course. We will ask about your needs at the time of registration and follow up as needed to ensure you have the correct equipment.